The Indigo Dye Pit - Kano (by Sylph)

Have you ever wondered where those lovely tied-died african printed fabric comes from? Well I had the pleasure of visiting an indigo dye pit in Kano, a northern Nigerian state, where the young men painstakingly prepare fabrics in an array of patterns and sizes for sale. At the dye pits we were exposed to the various processes that lead to the final product. Processes ranging from mixing the dye from all natural materials, tying the fabric, the dipping of the fabric, ironing using one of the more unique and traditional methods, which also gives the material its permanent shine and the finished product.

The area in which the dye pits were located was almost like an open yard, just off a busy street in downtown Kano. The area was busy and bustling with persons, mainly men, all engaged in different stages of the tie dye process.

We were greeted by a guide who first explained to us how the indigo dyes were prepared. In his hand he held a enamel bowl containing three smaller containers, which had the main ingredients of the indigo dye. They are indigo, ash and potassium. This combination is mixed with water in wells dug deep in the earth and left to ferment for a period of four weeks. The longer the solution ferments, the deeper the colour will be. After fermentation, the solution is ready for the dyeing process. This solution can be used for a period of one year.

Then we were shown the tying process. Where the fabric is tied tightly with thread at various points. This process acts as a retardant to the dye, prohibiting it from penetrating the tied area. On completion of the tying process the fabric is then ready to be dipped into the fermented solution. The tied fabric is hand dipped for approximately eight hours into the dying pits. So for eight hours someone sits at the edge of the pit, dipping and opening for air to enter and then dipping again until the fabric has completely absorbed the dye. The process is repeated over and over during this eight hour time frame. So he sits and dips and opens, rotating the fabric each time to ensure that it absorbs the dye. Dipping and opening, dipping and opening..... What a tedious process.

On completion of the dying process the fabric is hung out to dry under the radiant sun. When the fabric is completely dried, the thread is removed to display the wonderful patterns and designs produced by the tying and dyeing process. Then the fabric is sent to press. When we were told that we were going to the pressing room, I was mindful that their methods were extremely traditional, so I was not looking for any conventional methods, such as a Phillips Steam Iron. I was probably thinking along the lines of the traditional coat pot and iron, used back in the 50's in Trinidad. At no point could I have ever imagine what I was about to see.

We entered the little pressing room and stood in amazement, because sitting on the ground before our eyes was a room filled of young men, no more than 14 years of age, beating the fabric with HUGE pieces of Mahogany wood. YES, I said BEATING!!!!!! I was amazed. Because I really could not have anticipated what was before me. Not even if someone had told me before, would I have believed.

The room had two pieces of what looked like tree trunks lying on the ground, almost dugged into the earth and six boys, three on either side sat along side the trunks, armed with their hammers in the hand, beating the living daylights out of the fabric. A continuous beating..... They hammered and hammered away at the fabric. It was a sight to behold. Because trust me, this is something you cannot imagine. It was unbelievable, truly amazing. And what made it even more amazing was the weight if the pieces of wood. The wood was HEAVVVVYYYYYY............. We could barely lift the damn thing, far more beat anything with it. I must say those young men are strong. Damn Strong..... Because they did it with such easy, almost with smiles on their faces. It was truly an amazing sight.

We were informed that this method of ironing not only smooth the fabric, but also gave it a permanent shine. One that will last even after several washes.

After the fabric was pressed it was either packaged for sale or made into garments for sale. So on any given day at the dye pits one can find an assortment of tie dye items and garments to suit your preference.

The finished product for sale...

My mother making an attempt at the pressing process...